Guatemala, part 3

Day 8 was a relaxing recuperation day.  After a full three days of traveling, we stayed close to home, walking around the neighborhood to the grocery store, a nearby panadería, and playing with the girls.

Audrey doing an "Elsa braid" for Ellie.

She loves it!  

Melissa showed us how to make the drink we were served at practically every restaurant, rosé de jamaica (hibiscus punch).  

That evening we let Michael and Melissa enjoy some time to themselves while we watched the girls for a few hours.  The evening went quite smoothly compared to Saturday night when Michael and Melissa left to go to Bible study, only an hour before the girls' bedtime.  You can ask Audrey about it sometime...hilarious!  Let's just say my "mom of 4" skills came in handy, and thank goodness the Chapmans have tile floor and not carpet :)

Day 9, our last full day in Guatemala.  While the girls were in school for a couple hours that morning, Melissa, Audrey and I went back into the heart of the city to visit a few more places.  First stop, an interactive museum exhibit called, "Por qué estamos como estamos", why we are the way we are.  The exhibit gave an in-depth look at the history of Guatemala, its people groups, and the cultural and socio-economic identity issues and prejudices that abound in Guatemala.  It explored the "who" and "why" behind it all in a fun, interactive way.  Audrey read and learned as Melissa and I translated the bigger words.  It was a great experience for all of us.  Above, one display had you put yourself into someone else's shoes, literally, looking into a mirror, asking you, "What are your reactions?", "How do you feel?"  

This display shows where all 23 indigenous groups (all descendants of the Mayans) are located within Guatemala.  Each group has their own native language.  Spanish is the national language of Guatemala, but a second language for many, learned in school.  

It was such a great exhibit, one that challenged our brains and our hearts.  One of the facts that stuck with me as we read about the enormous discrepancy in Guatemala's socio-economic classes (particularly wages)...the price of Audrey's plane ticket to come and visit the Chapmans was the average yearly wage of the largest (and lowest) group.  I can't remember exact percentages, but it was more than half.  Nearly 75% of Guatemalans live below the poverty line, most of them indigenous groups.  

Our next stop, the National Cemetery.  Many of Guatemala's most important people are buried here.  This one being former president, General García Granados, known for leading the people in revolt against the government before he was president in the late 1800s.  Because of this, during the Civil War (1960-96), government officials would bring traitors to be lined up in front of his mausoleum, to be killed by firing squad.  Until just weeks before our arrival, the front of his tomb was riddled with bullet holes.  Melissa was surprised to see them newly filled and painted.  

Daisies among the tombs.  

Standing tall at the back of cemetery is a tree, covered in ivy and vultures, that overlook the city dump.  The National Cemetery butts up to the edge of one of Guatemala City's ravines.  At the bottom of this particular ravine is the dump. Although people are legally not allowed to live in the dump, they camp out on its edge, waiting to sift through the garbage trucks for recyclable materials to return for the few coins they are worth. The stench is powerful.  Melissa, then 16 weeks pregnant, had a difficult time without completely covering her mouth and nose with her shirt.  

I remember visiting a dump similar to this in Nicaragua, with tents scattered at its edge.  We stood in a small group, interviewing one of the workers about what he did there.  I could hardly focus, his words drifting around me, but never in my ears to be translated, as I used all my energy to breath and stand without retching, not daring to cover by face with my hand and shame this brave man, seeking to provide income for his family by whatever means possible.

For families that cannot afford a mausoleum, there are individual casket spots built into walls at the edges of the cemetery.  So much to see and absorb in one morning.  

After a quick lunch and picking up the girls from school, we headed out of the city for one final "field trip", the hot springs at Santa Teresita hotel in Amatitlan.  There are seven pools that create a "thermal circuit", which was great for the girls and Melissa that can't be in really hot water right now. Michael and I soaked a bit in the hot ones though!  

Day 10 we had breakfast all together then said goodbye to the girls when Michael took them to school. 

The rain had poured down again, all night and into the morning!  Hazel exploring the rain drops on the roses!  

Melissa, Audrey and I enjoyed a leisurely stroll to the nearby market for a few items I wanted to bring home, as well as enjoying a pastel and liquado together!  

One last look at the city through the airport windows.  

Homeward bound!  Our flight that afternoon from Guatemala to Houston was smooth, as well as going through customs.  We had plenty of time to eat dinner before our evening flight from Houston to San Jose.  We slept at my parents' house that evening before driving home Saturday morning back to Fresno.  

I cannot express my thankfulness in getting to make this trip.  It was so wonderful to spend time with our friends, to make this trip with Audrey, my teenager who will be leaving for college before I know it, and to get to see the work that MCC is doing in that part of the world.  

Now to start saving in hopes I can return with Randy in a year or two!

Guatemala, Part 2

Day 5, Sunday, started off rough.  Audrey woke up with an upset stomach (too many new and different foods the day prior) and we weren't sure the day's plans would happen.  But, praise the Lord, after sending out a quick message to friends and family to pray for Audrey, she felt much better after a shower and an extra hour of sleep!  Off to church!

The church that we attended that morning (1 of 6 Mennonite Brethren churches in Guatemala City) is the one the Chapmans usually attend.  Along with the sanctuary building, the complex also houses the MCC offices (the building behind Michael...the sanctuary to the right).  

Playtime in the front patio after church.  

After the church service we headed to lunch at Pollo Campero (the girls' favorite restaurant, and now Audrey's as well...fried chicken, french fries, and a play place, who could ask for more?), then off to visit one of the MCC partner organizations at Lake Atitlán, about a 2 1/2 hour drive.  

Arriving at the lake...a community park with wash tables at the shore line.  Women with their Sunday wash.  

Preparing dinner...tortillas and caldo de res.  

Ellie helping.  She is a great tortillera!

The family that runs the organization, ANADESA, graciously hosted all 6 of us for the evening!  

Day 6, starting our morning with breakfast of eggs, beans, and tortillas!  Hazel loves to help!  

I, unlike Ellie, am NOT a good tortillera!  Audrey thought my tortilla making skills were laughable!

Cooking on the wood-fire stove.  

Lots of chickens at our hosts' home...we counted over 70!  

After breakfast, Juan took us on a walking tour of the community, Panabaj (just west of Santiago de Atitlán).  Notice the tuk tuk in the picture...most roads in the cities around the lake are too small to accommodate full-size taxis, so you catch one of these for a ride!  

Another common site around town, coffee plants.  Lake Atitlán has three volcanoes at its edge, making the soil rich and fertile, and the climate perfect for growing coffee.  Many residents can supplement their wages by growing, harvesting, and selling the coffee beans grown in their gardens.

We visited the building that houses ANADESA, one of the partner organizations of MCC.  

Jewelry, keychains and ornaments made and beaded by the women at ANADESA.  One of the facets of the organization is to give local women an opportunity to create and sell handicrafts to supplement their families' income.  Beautiful!

The building in the background houses ANADESA.  The land in the foreground is the Parque de Paz (Peace Park).  Their properties are side-by-side.  The Parque de Paz is not connected to MCC at all, but is a monument created by the people to remember the massacre of December 2, 1990, that killed 13 people and wounded dozens more after a huge group of unarmed community members gathered to protest the occupation of military personnel at the lakeside, stationed there by the government in the midst of Guatemala's civil war.  As the soldiers stepped out to meet the protestors (standing throughout the area, then covered by coffee plants), they opened fire on the group.  Everyone fled.  But the bodies were left in place so that in days to come other people from the outlying communities could come and see that the massacre truly happened (during Guatemela's civil war, the government forcibly "disappeared" anyone who spoke out against the government...over 45,000).  Later, community leaders, working together with the Catholic Church, created this memorial place where mass is held to commemorate the events every December 2nd.  

Looking over the gravestone of the second-youngest victim of the massacre, a 13-yr old.

A mural recently completed to represent the park's history.  

We visited the local school, for 7-12 year olds.  This is the only school in the area.  One would have to travel to another town to attend a private Jr. high or secondary school.  ANADESA would like to help children in the community continue their education.  They hope, in the near future, to build onto their facility in order to have space for a Jr. high, and possibly house an MCC worker that could help with the education aspect.  

This is some open land up the hill from the school.  It was once a large community, but was completely destroyed by a mudslide when Hurricane Stan came through in 2005, killing 75 (one of the hardest hit communities in the storm).  The school had mud wash up into the buildings, filling up to the base of the windows.  MCC, along with other relief organizations, came into the area with blankets, relief kits, canned meat, and water filters. There were also many people that came to help rebuild and relocate the community in a neighboring area called Chiquimuk.  

Walking back down the hill, Michael and Juan (our tour guide, community leader, and founder of ANADESA) leading the way.  El Mirador in the background.  

Stopping for a rest 

and later, some lunch by the lake.

While Michael took the girls back to the room for a bit of a nap, Audrey, Melissa and I explored Santiago a bit more.  We went to the market and found some little gifts for friends and family.  We then wandered into the town square.  The city of Santiago de Atitlán has the oldest Catholic church in all Latin America, built in 1547.  Behind the church altar is buried the heart (yes, just the heart) of missionary priest, Father Stanley Rother, who was murdered in 1981 during the Civil War.  His body is buried in his hometown in Oklahoma.  You can read more about him here.

From on top of the church steps looking into the courtyard.  School was meeting outside that day as it was quite warm.  

The weekend prior had been a city-wide celebration, the yearly remembrance of Father Rother.  We weren't sure if this was set up for the celebration or "recess" time for the school kids, but I took this photo for my hubby, who is the best foosball player I know!  

Catching a tuk tuk back into Panabaj for our afternoon jewelry making lesson at ANADESA

Learning how to bead a bracelet from Juan's niece, Amelia.

Our finished products!  

Some down time before dinner, Ellie and all the girls of the family.

There is something special that happens when you try to use your second language with little kids...lots of giggles, all embarrassment is gone because you are seemingly all on the same level.  For these little girls, Spanish is also their second language, learned at school.  Tz'utujil is their native language.  Audrey loved trying to use her Spanish the two days we were with this wonderful family!  This is Audrey and Irma. 

We walked to the edge of town to a popular tourist hotel, Posada de Santiago, in hopes that we could eat at their restaurant for dinner.  The hotel was completely full and we had to wait almost 2 hours for a table!  So we walked further into town, relaxed in a café near the market (notice the wares for sale in the shop to the right), and then took a tuk tuk back in time for our reservation.  

Melissa and Audrey sharing their Oreo "frappucino".

Hazel enjoyed her liquado while waiting too!

Day 7, I awoke to find this blanket newly laundered and hanging in the courtyard, lovingly pieced and tied by someone working with MCC, most likely delivered during the clean-up after Hurricane Stan.

After a breakfast of eggs, beans, tortillas and spaghetti (yes, my brain looked at the plate and the song, "One of these things is not like the other" started up), we headed over to visit the newly formed community in Chiquimuk, built after the mudslide.  

The leaders of ANADESA came along to show us the school there in the community.  They provide an after-school program one afternoon a week there, hopefully two days a week soon.  

After stopping for lunch we headed back to ANADESA in time for their after-school program to start at 2 o'clock (three times a week there in Panabaj).  Juan and his coworkers wanted us to come visit, see the kids, say hello, and enjoy a piñata!  Many members of the community work long hours and children are left to fend for themselves through evening.  Juan wants to see the children in a safe place where they can also get help with schoolwork and play together.  

Michael and Ellie saying a few words.  

Extra side note...ANADESA is one of the sites that hosts a SALT student every year. We were visiting during the few weeks when one student had recently said goodbye and a new one will be joining the community in a few weeks.  To learn more about this program read here.  

After visiting with the kids at ANADESA, we took our leave.  Last stop? Across the lake (by ferry) to Panahachel (Michael drove around, giving Hazel a chance to catch a quick nap, meeting us on the other side).  As soon as we got to the dock it started to pour!  The owners of the boat quickly threw tarps over the ferries, sadly blocking our view of the gorgeous lake, with its trio of volcanoes, but the rainstorm was a treat in itself!  We don't get rain like that in the valley!  

Relaxing in the rain, waiting to leave until the boat is full (almost an hour).

Finally, on the other side of the lake, looking back from where we came.  

Luckily, Michael knew the perfect place to warm up our cold and wet feet, Crossroads Café. Talk about locally sourced coffee, farmed right at the base of the volcanoes, across the lake!  

Audrey enjoyed her hot chocolate and cheesecake!  

Starting the drive back, winding up and around the east side of the lake, back to Guatemala City.  

So thankful for a quick break in the rain as we left.  Right after this photo it started to pour down again, and didn't stop all night, into the morning!  Thankful for a safe drive home in the rain!